Tunisia

Southern Tunisia

April 2012 • Couldn't afford a rental car so I relied on the louage system (8-passenger share taxis) to get around the country. No freedom to stop whenever something interesting came along, but at least I could talk with Tunisians who aren't connected to the tourism infrastructure. Conversations ranged from enlightening (a businessman's praise for the work ethic of people in Sfax) to sad-trombone awkward (three hijab-wearing university girls upset by my atheism, urging me to read the Quran). Several people mentioned how new it is for them—only a year after their Dignity Revolution—to talk so openly and freely with a foreigner. And in that spirit, I'll definitely never forget the crazy louage driver who looked like Neal Cassady and cursed like Tony Montana, thanks to my helpful coaching.